"In Israel, in order to be a realist you must believe in miracles"
~ David Ben-Gurion

Naturally, my trip started at the airport...

I had been forewarned to expect some interest from airline personnel. And logically so ... lone adult male, non-Jewish, carry-on baggage only, flying to Israel? Yeah, I got there early.

I flew on El Al, which according to Wikipedia:
is widely acknowledged as the world's most secure airline, after foiling many attempted hijackings and terror attacks through its security protocols.
Damn straight. I may not have been able to take a picture of the plane but I've never felt safer on any form of public transportation. And the staff provided great customer service, trying to ease the effects of such a long flight.
(10 hours there; 13 hours coming back!)

The lady at customs stamped my passport with a weary eye but I had at last arrived. I met the rest of my group in the terminal.

We pulled in to the Intercontinental Tel Aviv and 15 minutes after check-in we were back on the road. This view of the Mediterranean Sea from my room was pretty sweet. (below)

I was with a group of 20 other Federation professionals from all over North America. At some point along the trip, each person offered me some insight on what we were seeing or doing. A great group to travel with. Thanks everybody!

Our first stop was the Mishkenot Ruth Daniel Guest House. A beautiful spot in downtown Jaffa (next to the soccer stadium), with a rooftop balcony - it was the perfect starting spot for our walking tour of the city. Karen, our guide, wound us through old parts of the city including a stop at Bakery Said Abuelafia & Sons for some bread.
(They've been open for over 100 years)

Next stop was the scenic overlook of Tel Aviv,
(pictured top left) a mosque and St Peters Church (above). We ended at an old Jewish cemetery in the midst of the city, right next to the ultra-luxurious Andromeda residences.

That night we enjoyed a six-course meal at the beautiful Carlton Tel Aviv. Dinner was: gazpacho, a mushroom and noodle dish, squash soup, beef tar tar and a lamb pot pie. Followed by a chocolate buffet for dessert. Yum.

Back at the hotel for the first night.
Estimated amount of sleep: 30 min

Next morning, I was at breakfast at 6:30am enjoying the fresh israeli salad that I enjoyed today in the comfort of my home. Peppers, zucchini and carrots. Dice. Serve.

On the tour bus shortly after 8am, headed toward the Negev, the desert region of southern Israel that constitutes about half of the country.

We stopped to see a field covered with "the flower of David," (left). It grows wild in Israel, thriving in the harsh dry conditions that would kill many other plants.

(Above) Our tour guide, Michal Granot, created a female representation of Israel out of Melinda. Then back to the bus. Heading south.

We toured the Nitzzana Project which featured many hands-on applications in solar energy and water conservation. The tower (above) supplied solar energy to a fan at the top. Combined with fine water misters, the temperature inside could easily be 20 degrees cooler even during the summer.

We rode bikes out into the desert, saw the Egyptian border and listened to a lovely french cellist (above left) while in a tunnel (left - Matt).

Lunch was a smorgasbord with a delicious pea soup, salad and some schnitzel. Then it was off to Mitzpe Ramon, where we encountered the naturally made Ramon Crater, (below).

Heading north, we stopped at a local family-operated winery, (In the middle of the desert, mind you), and met Eyal, a modest man who was more concerned about the quality of his life over the size of his paycheck. Plus, he made some darn good Cabernet Sauvignon. And Port.
(Thanks Jerry!)

Later, the bus stopped along a dark road. Torches lit a path every few meters that wound up a hill. It lead to ruins in the Shivta National Park.

Upon entering, we found a live Jazz band, courtesy of The School of music in Ramat-Ha-Negev Community Center. At one point, the lights were turned off, while the band played up to the starry desert night.
A perfect moment ...

We had a family-style dinner just down the trail.
Estimated sleep time: 3 hours.

I awoke the next morning in the kibbutz community called Mashabei Sade. Had breakfast with an immigrant named Igor who came from Russia by way of London, (hence the english accent), and he explained his humble beginnings as an Israeli.

We visited the children's programs, including a classroom (left) and the rest of the large community. They even have an indoor pool during the winter. Egypt and Jordan sat in the distance.

We then headed to the Ramat Negev Desert Agro Research Center (RNDARC) where we learned about water conservation and techniques using brackish water to yield plumper and longer-lasting cherry tomatoes on the vine. (below)

Delicious! Peppers, tomatoes and salt plant were also being grown, as were select flowers.

The salt plant, to which Rav is discussing (above, left) is known to help rats with diabetes in testing. It literally tastes like salt and would be fantastic on a salad. Keep an eye out.

Next, we paid a visit to Ben-Gurion’s Tomb National Park. Here, the graves of David and Paula Ben-Gurion overlook a breathtaking view of the Tsin canyon. The path from the parking lot to the grave site goes through a garden of carefully protected vegetation.

"David Ben-Gurion, who declared the establishment of the state of Israel and became its first prime minister, was arguably one of the most outstanding figures of the 20th century. Not only did he dream that the Negev could flourish, he and Paula practiced what he preached by becoming members of Kibbutz Sde Boker in 1953. In 1963, the couple retired to a modest ‘hut’ on the kibbutz, where they lived a simple life-style that amazed the bevy of world leaders who visited Ben-Gurion at home over the years." - www.parks.org.il

While at the park, we met with Deborah Goldman Golan who discussed "Why the Torah was given in the desert." She is from Atid Bamidbar, a non-profit association that aims to develop community ownership and activism in the Negev.

As she spoke, the Israeli Air Force made it's presence known once-in-awhile as a helicopter or a jet screamed by. Rav had explained that two minutes after take off, fighter pilots already reach the Israel border and they have to fly over Egypt and Jordan to complete maneuvers.

Sde mentioned: when asked why the jets needed to fly directly over Ben Gurion's grave, the IDF replied simply, "To go around would waste fuel." I don't think Ben Gurion would mind having them around.

Meanwhile, Kathi made best friends with a local.
Back to the bus.

We stopped at the Center for Independent Living, which is "a community-based multi-service center - designed, managed and operated by disabled persons." The operation includes a restaurant beneath an all-weather tent modeled after a traditional Bedouin tent. We had lunch and listened to inspirational stories from it's residents (left, the founder of the project with translator).

The Bedouin (courtesy of Wikipedia): are traditionally pastoral semi-nomadic Arab tribes indigenous to the Negev region. Estimated to number some 160,000, they comprise 12% of the Arab citizenry of Israel. Of Israel's total population, 12% live in the Negev, and Bedouin constitute 25% percent of the total population therein.

We passed many Bedouin camps. They live in small communities of tents or tin shacks, (some drive a toyota truck, some a camel). Its a true contrast to the modern cities we've passed through.

We left on a brand new highway that shortened the distance to Jerusalem. We also passed through the valley where David fought Goliath (lower left).

The new highway also follows the West Bank, (left), and the barrier that separates it. I never truly appreciated how close the settlements were - and it is evidently the same with other borders like Gaza and Jordan.

We stopped in Beit Shemesh to meet with members of the Ethiopin National Project. The visit, (located in a bomb shelter; pictured above), included stories and role-play activity about the dilemmas they have faced in providing educational and social needs to the Ethiopian community.

We entered Jerusalem and made camp at the Inbal Hotel. Got a 30-minute massage and enjoyed a 6-course meal including: salmon in guacamole-wasabi sauce; Frois Gras (I declined); roasted sea bass & spinach ravioli; cream of chestnut soup; rack of lamb and apple sorbet. What a place!

Estimated sleep time: 3 hours.

Up bright and early!

Breakfast at the hotel including israeli salad and some great coffee and we were off to the Machane Yehuda market.

This place is great! Its an open air market, brisk but busy with people moving about. It wasn't crowded yet but it soon would be and you can sort of feel it.

Fresh pomegranate. Huge strawberries. Fish, nuts, spices. All with interesting smells and in full blooming color everywhere you look.

It was here that we met Tali Friedman, (left), a local chef with a gorgeous studio located at the start of the market. The second floor consists of a modern kitchen with a long dining table, an apéritif room and bathroom. The windows look out onto the market.

She then led us to the rooftop that she's planning to turn into a dining area. (below)

Tali gave us a tour of the market, sampling the local wares along the way. Breads, fish, pomegranate. But there vendors who were also selling clothes, coffee, dvds and prepared food.

Back in her studio, she forced upon us red wine and various cheeses.

It was 9am.

It is rumored that she is getting her own TV show ... I suspect we may see more of Tali someday.

The market was a perfect place to start the day.

 

Next stop, was the scenic Sataf on the slopes of
Mt. Eitan. They practice old-school agriculture,
(no machinery or pesticides) on the remains of a 4000 BC village, (lower left). They use impressive techniques of water conservation and irrigation.

At the top of the trail, I suggested we take a group picture, (left). I'm the one NOT looking at the camera. The hike down into the village was fun and the unusually warm winter weather made for a beautiful day. But all of that hiking drained us of valuable resources. We needed wine and cheese, as soon as possible.

Enter Shai Zeltzer. Shai, (below), has a goat farm where he produces some fantastic cheese. Some of it has even decreased breast tumors in lab rats!

He was humble and charismatic and I listened to him intently while sucking on an olive oil soaked rosebud. The cheese flavors depended solely on what the goats ate. It was damn good.

On the way back, we stopped at Kibbutz Tzuba, for a late lunch and some wine tasting (above).

In Jerusalem, Matt and I attended, (thank you Pam & Rebecca!), the start of Shabbat at the Western Wall, (left). It was a moment of unforgettable positive energy.

The evening was capped by another 6-course meal at the David Citadel Hotel, and featured the very entertaining and personable, Assael Romanelli. While he provided some pre-Shabbat and post-dinner entertainment, I much preferred our table discussion and laughed often. He does improv which I would have loved to have seen.

You would think that after a day of traveling, hiking and continuous wine ingestion that I would have gone straight to bed.

Instead, I went to Sayuri's Katana, a sushi bar around the corner from the hotel. (left)

It was there that I met the bartender Avi, (a political science major) and Orinen, (a computer guy). Between computers, politics and music - we had plenty to talk about.

We drank scotch and had sushi and laughed. And when I next looked at my watch it was 2:30am.

Sadly, I did not get their picture.

Wake up time was more leisure on Saturday.
Got to sleep in. Estimated sleep time: 4 hours

We got a tour of the very posh Mamilla Hotel, which is parked across the street from the David Citadel. (The Waldorf is going up nearby)

After that, we were unleashed with our excellent tour guide, Michal, into the old city in Jerusalem.

First stop was the Maronite Patriarchal Exarchate. It has a splendid, and less crowded, overlook of the city, (left). We were the only group up there for some time. It's also where I got the images for the panorama (above).

On the way down, we stopped inside the church, (lower left). Michal was a wonderful fountain of historical information!

The thick walls. The feeling like this stuff has been around for a long while. I loved it.

We went briskly through the shuk on our way to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. But first, we needed a lunch break - where I experienced my very first falafel, (below). Yummy.

Inside the Church, among other things, were the last five Stations of the Cross. (Key moments during the crucifixion of Jesus).

Included in these are: the rock on which his crucifix sat; the slab on which his body was lain, (left), and his tomb.

There were people standing in long lines to touch the rock or pass through the tomb. It was very crowded and dim and wildly ornate.

I took pictures, many of which did not come out or simply would not convey the image it was supposed to. I would like to revisit it on a day when less people are there. Yeah, right.

We concluded the tour at the Western Wall, which was much less crowded than the night before. Michal led us back to the market where she said goodbye. Matt and I explored the shuk and made some smart purchases.

Buying things at the shuk, courtesy of Jerry:
• Don't pay full price. Be patient.
• If its still not low enough - walk away. They will follow you and give you their best offer.
• Repeat.

Got a quick video of the shuk (left). Its kinda jumpy but its the best I did.

Back to the hotel, we met for Havdalah, (my first), where Bob was the master of ceremonies (lower left). We celebrated the end of Shabbat and the beginning of a great new week.

Onto the bus, where we were sent to La Guta for dinner. Anyone who had been there prior raved about the food.

They squished us into the dining room with another group - which wouldn't have been all that bad - but they served a tasting menu which was brought out on an army of dishes. And with little room to spare ... it was a little tight. The food, however, was delicious.

Then it was off to the Tower of David for the
Night Spectacular - a dazzling sight and sound experience. No pictures allowed.

Afterwards, Matt and I checked out the bar Scala in our hotel. We enjoyed the last evening of the mission as it ended the next day and most people would be heading home, including him.

We talked with a couple of employees and got some insight to Israeli life. I had really come to enjoy this place and still had three days to go. Estimated sleep time: 5 hours

Had no idea what my morning would be like.
Stop 1: We met Dr. Shrir Dor, who gave a presentation about his arrival to Haiti two days after the earthquake (video coverage). He talked about the delivery of the baby named Israel, and how they left two prenatal incubators behind because Haiti NEVER had them. Powerful stuff.

Stop 2: We went to visit the Foreign Ministry. They took my passport and exchanged it for a lanyard and badge. Once settled in the auditorium, we met Ido Aharoni, head of Brand Management Affairs for the Israel Ministry. This guy was speaking my language. His presentation was impressive and he dished out tons of data, but kept a sense of humor. I wanted to spend more time with him, and apparently, so did Bob!

Stop 3: Omanoot - is a non-profit educational center, (left), which offers access to Israeli music, film and art through it's website. We met with the director of education, Lindsay Citerman, who showed us a powerful movie about the Israeli Defense Force draft and opened a dialogue about it. A very promising program.

Stopped for a 6-course lunch at the Mt Zion Hotel. It consisted of fillet of salmon; artichoke soup; endive salad with pomegranate and pecan; beef & chicken with lentils and an awesome vanilla basil ice cream, (above).

We also got a tour of the facility, including the steam bath, with Jerry, (above left)

We ended the mission with dinner and summary at the Ben Shemen Youth Village. We toured the grounds via tractor, (left), had dinner and talked about the past few days. The majority of group then departed for the U.S. and I went back to the hotel for a decent night's sleep.

I woke up the next morning, ready to go. Had coffee and took a walk into the old city with Pam and we parted ways near the very unique jewelry store Hadaya.

I walked atop the old city walls via the Ramperts Walk, (below), from the Jaffa Gate toward to the Dung Gate.

I went underground for the Western Wall Tunnel Tour, (left): The large stone across the top weighs nearly 600 tons! We ended up on a street built thousands of years ago. Very cool.

Then I headed for the Temple Mount, (left). I was 3 people away when the guard shut the gate. Some guy came back and said "They're with me!" and the guard begrudgingly opened the door.

The Mount was open and airy. I took pictures of the mosque and managed to get one shot of The Mount of Olives, (left), when guards came to escort me out at closing time. A mystical place.

I wandered through the streets, stopped and had a falafel, and made my way specifically into the muslim quarter. Lots of shops and restaurants and people of all varieties. I wandered through the other quarters taking pictures through sunset. Went to Sayuri's Katana for dinner. Slept soundly.

My last day in Israel was also my most leisurely.

I was up early anyway and went for a morning walk into the old city, stopping to get some zatar bread. Then it was straight up Jaffa Street for my appointment with Orel, (above), owner and artist at Master Tattoo.

I explained that I was looking for a Hamsa and in minutes she produced a cool mockup.

She enjoys her job.

I love it, Orel!

Had a late lunch in the executive lounge at the hotel, (left), where the view is lovely. While packing I found I had accumulated more stuff than I thought. Whoops.

Back to the airport via a local Sherut who seemed to be carefree of any speed limits or general driving laws. 50 shekels is a low price for such an exciting ride.

Got to the airport early, and El Al did a much more thorough job of searching my bags than their American counterparts. My journey home began.

I left Israel stunned. So much history and energy. The people are absolutely beautiful and engaging. The food is delicious and healthy. The scenery is gorgeous.

There are so many different facets of the country. To travel 30 minutes is to be in a different landscape. The biblical and beautiful Negev desert. The modern skyline of Tel Aviv in contrast to the old city of Jerusalem. So much to see.

I took over 600 pictures.
I felt like I was in the center of the universe.
I cannot wait to go back.